All of us who work in and around the Hotel Commonwealth had been awaiting the opening of Eastern Standard for over a month. Every day, we would see managers, chefs, and other workers shuffle back and forth, planning the restaurant that they hoped would enliven the nightlife of Kenmore Square. The management team, led by owner Garrett Harker (of No.9 Park, the Butcher Shop and B&G Oysters fame) and general manager Gwen Butler, was what the local media was calling "a powerhouse." An early peak inside confirmed that the large interior was swanky in a 1920s-Parisian-bistro kind of way. And if the catered food at the recent Improper Bostonian party at the hotel was any indication, executive chef Jamie Bissonette (ex.-Pigalle and Tremont 647) was leading a not-too-shabby culinary team.
"Come by opening night and support us!" said Garrett on more than one occasion. "It won't be busy at all." His modest sentiments were echoed by the rest of the management staff. My boss Caroline believed them and didn't make a reservation.
By the time our group of six arrived at 9pm, the restaurant was already packed, as I had suspected. The wait would have been almost an hour if Garrett hadn't strolled over, as tall and charming as ever. He promised to work some magic, and sent the bar manager over with cocktails while we waited. A few minutes later Gwen sashayed over (and she epitomizes that verb) in a fantastic kelly green cocktail dress, and led us to our table. Front and center, near the windows.
I'm not used to special treatment at restaurants, so it's nice for a change.
We had all studied the menu for weeks in anticipation, debating what to order. There were three different types of oysters, so I tried the Massachusetts variety that were naturally salty and tangy (I forget the name.) Bone marrow was something I never tried before, and ordered that as well. It was a bone of a cow leg boiled so long that the insides were soft enough to be spreadable. What was it like? Lumpy, a bit slimy, and not unlike the fatty parts of beef. The steak tartare was a bit rough, though it came with truly amazing fries.
The managers and waitstaff all raved about the roasted chicken stuffed with foie gras, but I thought the chicken was too salty. And ethical debates aside, having foie gras stuffed in chicken seems like the wrong way to use it. If a restaurant were to serve it, it should stand alone, since the whole point is the texture. I didn't try the salmon, but apparently it had improved since the test runs because the kitchen used far less butter.
We were all eating at that point except Leah, who owns Jean Therapy. She was doing side-by-side hamburger comparisons with one of her employees, and there were some clear size differences.
"This is the world's smallest patty on the world's biggest bun!" she exclaimed. She sent it back, and while she waited, received a plate of salt cod fritters with those amazing fries as a token of apology. I had a taste and they were the best fish and chips I've ever had. It's ironic that the best dish of the night was the free one.
Jamie came out to personally hand over the redone burger and apologized. Leah teased him and was satisfied.
A restaurant needs at least a few weeks before it can be subject to a fair review. (Not that I review restaurants, per se. I just write about my experiences.) But its opening night, despite a few kinks, was very enjoyable. It has great atmosphere, great people, great food. And the cocktails? Incredible. I can't wait to be back.
Eastern Standard - 528 Commonwealth Ave., Kenmore Square
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Posted by: zcloewifr qharl | March 25, 2009 at 11:54 AM